The art of wine extends far beyond its storage. It encompasses the selection, the pairing, and the enjoyment of each bottle. We recently had the pleasure of interviewing Sean Crenny, sommelier at the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence Winning restaurant Coeur, based in Ferndale, MI to delve into the intricacies of their craft and provide you with an insider’s perspective on the dining experience.
Q: Can you walk me through the typical sequence of events when ordering wine at a restaurant?
Guests are escorted to their table by our host who presents them with a menu and a full wine and spirits list. After water is poured, the server will explain the food menu and offer assistance with the wine by the glass and cocktail menus. Some guests start with a cocktail or glass of wine before deciding to order à la carte or the five-course tasting menu. We change our tasting menu every two weeks, as well as the optional wine pairing to accompany it. If guests choose the wine pairing option, I present the first wine as I introduce myself to the table and then proceed to bring them and talk about the wines that I have chosen to accompany each course. If guests are not doing a pairing, it is a discussion about what they would like to enjoy with their experience. For me, it’s not about “upselling.” I want our guests to drink what makes them happy, whether that is a $12 glass of wine or a $300 bottle. It really depends on each guest and each table, in regards to how I approach. “Reading the room” and picking up the “vibes” a table is giving off allows me to approach at an appropriate time for them.
Q: Do you offer everyone at the table a wine list, or do you try to learn who will be ordering?
Each guest is presented with a three-page menu. Food on the first page, wine by the glass on the second, and cocktails, beer, and zero-proof selections on the third. We also put one full wine list on the table upon seating. With this method, all guests get to see the 20+ wines by the glass we currently offer. It also allows for whoever may be taking the lead at the table for wine decisions the chance to pick up the full wine list. This detail allows me to get a better idea as to who may be making the wine decisions for the table.
Q: How does a sommelier navigate making wine suggestions when diners haven’t yet decided on their meals?
For me, it’s usually food first. If guests want to start with something before they make their food choices, I recommend starting with a glass of sparkling wine or a cocktail. Once food decisions are made, I can better assist with a wine that will pair with food selections. Keep in mind, this method is for guests that desire a wine to pair with their meal. Some guests have an idea of the style of wine they want to drink regardless of what food they will be enjoying. In those moments, I try to decipher what that particular guest is looking for and make recommendations based upon their responses to my guiding questions.
Q: What criteria do you consider when developing wine recommendations, and how does cost factor into that decision-making process?
I have a series of questions that I ask a guest when they are looking for a bottle: Sparkling, White, Rosé, or Red? Light or Full Bodied? Fruity or Earthy? for example. Their responses will give me an idea of the flavor profile they are looking for. Once that is determined, I suggest wines that fit those descriptors at multiple price points. Other times, guests will let me know how much they are looking to spend. This transparency is helpful to me; it allows me to find them the most “bang for their buck.”
Q: Is it customary or advisable to offer the sommelier a taste of the chosen wine when it’s presented?
I am a firm believer that the sommelier should taste every bottle opened in the restaurant. Just as a chef is expected to taste the food to make sure it is showing as they intend, the same is true for wine. Many guests have not experienced the wine they ordered, so if it is flawed, they may not know. I taste about 1/4oz of every bottle we serve. This allows for me to swap the wine for another bottle of the same if the wine is flawed. In most cases, I am checking to make sure the wine does not have “cork taint” which will give the wine a “wet cardboard” or “musty” aroma. This is to ensure that the guest never has to smell or taste something that is not delicious. After the bottle is presented, I open all the bottles at the sommelier station behind the bar. This allows me to open, decant if necessary, and taste the wine to ensure it is drinking the way it should be before bringing the wine to the table for the guest. If there is something “off” about the wine, I will get a new bottle. Many guests think sommeliers pour them a taste to make sure they “like” the wine. That is not the case. That customary taste is to make sure the wine is not flawed. As certain guests may have not experienced and recognized flawed wines before, I aim to eliminate that extra pressure from the guest.
Q: To what extent does food pairing influence wine selection, especially when there’s a diverse range of menu items being ordered by different diners?
Wine versatility is important in these situations. Wines like Rosé Champagne, Alsatian Pinot Gris, and White and Red Burgundy are fantastic in situations when a table is ordering a diverse selection of food but want one bottle to pair well with everything. For some guests that are less interested in “the perfect pairing,” I find that selecting a bottle of wine that they enjoy drinking on its own may sometimes be the “best fit.” If you only like big, bold red wines and want to order a light flaky fish, go for it! Wine should make people happy, and if “pairing” is overwhelming, just eat and drink the things you know you like.
Q: How do you suggest handling the issue of payment responsibility when selecting wine for a group?
If there is a “host” for the group, I will discuss with them what style of wine they are looking for and narrow down the wine list to offer wines at a few different price points. Also, they may tell me how much they are looking to spend. Ultimately, it is up to that particular group as to how they would like to split the payment. Some guests will have wine on a separate check if one person wants to pick up the tab, but most of our guests will ask for the check to be split evenly amongst the group.
Q: What are your thoughts on diners bringing their own wines and paying corkage fees?
That is a tricky one. If guests have special wines that are meaningful to them, or quality bottles that are not featured on our wine list, I love that they can bring their wine into the restaurant to enhance their experience. However, creating a wine list is a labor of love. All of the wines we feature are there with intent to be served with our cuisine. Ultimately, I would prefer guests to order wines from our list, but bringing in a special bottle is certainly acceptable. We charge $30 per 750ml bottle for a corkage fee. Keep in mind that corkage fees at restaurants will range from nothing to over $100 per bottle, so I always recommend contacting the restaurant prior to your arrival to make sure you can bring corkage, and if so, what the fee will be.
Q: In your view, when is it appropriate to return a bottle of wine beyond the obvious issues like cork taint or premature oxidation?
Only “send back” a wine if it is flawed. At Coeur, we taste every bottle, so it is very rare that a flawed wine will be served to our guests. At a restaurant that has a sommelier, use them as a resource while making your wine selection. “Not liking” a wine is not an acceptable reason to return a bottle. If you are ordering a wine you have never had before, consult with the sommelier to make sure it is stylistically a wine you will enjoy.
Q: What does a sommelier expect from the customer — how much direction/input would you like to have?
It is up to the guest how much interaction and direction they would like to receive from the sommelier. Every person is different. We all like different flavors and styles of wine. We also all have different levels of wine knowledge and knowledge of descriptive wine terminology. I approach each conversation with no expectations. Hopefully, with a brief conversation, the guest and sommelier can select a wine that they will enjoy. For example, the term “dry” is tossed around a lot. About 90% of wine lists are comprised of “dry” wines. This just means that the wine does not have residual sugar. If you like “sweet” wine, that is not a problem! The better a guest can articulate what they are looking for, the more helpful the sommelier can be. Do not hesitate to give the sommelier examples of wines you like. There is no wrong way to approach wine if you are true to yourself and the things that you like to drink.
Q: What goes into deciding if the second bottle will be the same as the first or something different?
It depends on the guests. There are so many ways to enjoy wine. That is the beauty of it! If a table wants to try a few different bottles of wine, I recommend planning this at the beginning of the dining experience, so we can select wines that will progress throughout their meal. That way, I can make sure to get them the wines they are excited about drinking and allow those wines to open up throughout the night.
Q: What are some of your favorite wines, and can you share the most iconic wine you’ve ever enjoyed?
I love Champagne and other sparkling wines! Riesling is another favorite grape variety of mine. Sparkling, dry, off-dry, and sweet versions all have a place in my heart. The most iconic wine I have ever tasted would be a 1985 Sassicaia Magnum.
Understanding the sommelier’s role can enhance your appreciation of wine and its perfect pairings. Cheers to discovering new favorites and enjoying the journey each bottle offers!